A long room where the eye is drawn to the flames of the charcoal grill, Mezza Luna offers a menu influenced by both Lebanese and Moroccan traditions. And if that sounds unusual, then perhaps uniquely among the grill houses on City Road, there is alcohol on offer. I tried a crisp Lebanese Almaza pilsener. My Read More
A little run of shopfronts near Barry’s Cold Knap is where you’ll find Mr Villa’s. Open since last November, it bills itself as a fish and chips restaurant and oyster bar. That doesn’t do it justice. The tables hold old-school vinegar and salt; the broad white and blue stripes, whitewashed walls, unfinished concrete floor, open Read More
I Giardini di Sorrento bills itself as ‘Coffee House-Bar-Kitchen’, though that doesn’t really do it justice. It’s certainly not formal dining, and as such it fits in well on City Road, but this isn’t a café knocking out a few token sandwiches as an afterthought. Today’s specials of lobster and T-bone are a giveaway, though Read More
Fans of undercooked beef might enjoy this one; by the same token, ‘well done’ evangelists and soapboxers might do well to save themselves and me the bother, and check back in later. You can probably tell why. I’ve been keen to revisit Bleecker since last year’s Dalston Street Feast, where they had a corner stall, Read More
The queues outside Padella tell their own tale: within minutes of the lunchtime doors opening the place is crammed, yet the lines still form on Southwark Street. It’s a small space, with diners sitting up on kitchen-front stools and at marble ledges in the window, with another room below. The menu is compact: five antipasti, Read More
When the skies opened after a stellar lunch at BAO in Soho last year, the mizzle of the morning becoming a full-on deluge, we ran for cover. And in one of those little strokes of luck, we took shelter a hundred yards round the corner in The Sun and 13 Cantons. And there, on the Read More
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