I’m not in a good mood by the time I arrive at Hiraeth Kitchen. Any balm dispensed by the bus ride from Cardiff- a timely reminder of just how beautiful the Vale can be- is lost when I try to find a taxi from Cowbridge. Apparently the Gordian knot, Fermat’s Last Theorem and the continuing Read More
I’ll always have a soft spot for Charles St. I had one of the most romantic meals of my life there, one of those unplanned post-gig late-night styrofoam boxes of noodles under a starry sky, where she nestles her head into your chest and softly sighs and you’re both stupidly, uncomplicatedly happy as possibilities bloom. Read More
I’ve come at the wrong time, haven’t I? It’s a bright, cold day, the light filling the room those huge windows. Lovely if you’re the kind of inveterate arsehole who insists on photographing their dinner, mind. And yet…in my head, the default Nook look is seeing the place lit like a picture on an autumn Read More
Open for just over a month as I write this, Clare Road’s Al-Madina is another unadorned, uncomplicated Grangetown find. It’s not just the plastic sheet-covered tables and it-would-be-an-upgrade-to-call-it-bare- bones decor: there’s no social media, no Google listing yet, no invitation evenings with prescribed hashtags and 13 identical captions. How utterly refreshing. The bilingual menu- Arabic Read More
I love watching a chef work the tandoor. It’s something about the calm, economical movements, I think: the minimal fuss. You appreciate their efficiency, especially knowing, from limited experience, how ferociously hot those ovens are; and how reaching in and slapping the dough-laden gaddi ‘pillow’ against the sides- and getting it to stick- is harder Read More
Mowgli, Honest, Pho, Rosa’s: Church St has become a hub of the better chains. And now here come Fat Hippo. Starting in Newcastle in 2010, this is not an overnight success story but a steady expansion across the North before the moves to Wales, Birmingham and London. News of their Cardiff arrival was greeted with Read More
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