As I started cooking this Wadadli menu, it started to snow: and if that sounds like the sort of achingly clumsy device the worst sort of arsehole might contrive in this context, you’ll have to indulge me as we press on together. Because if you’re finding yourself kicking against the pricks of chill winds and Read More
If the devil is in the details, someone should probably check Leyli Homayoonfar for horns and cloven hooves. I first fell for her food at her Leyli Joon & Co Grangetown supper club: a true family business. She took her Bab Haus to Sticky Fingers for its purple patch, a time we will likely one Read More
At some point over the last few years, Antonio Simone obviously sat down and thought about chips. Not in the way we all do in the odd lull, when you get that craving for the tang of salt and vinegar and the little puff of steam as you unwrap them because it’s cold and you Read More
‘Goldilocks’ restaurants are rare enough and should be celebrated, so I’m amazed I haven’t written about this place until now. The Old Custom House has long been one of those rare places where you know everything will be ‘just right’. The welcome, the atmosphere, the surroundings, the service, the cooking. Just right. I’ve had many Read More
Pandemic on the streets of Canton, pandemic on the streets of Riverside: but comfort food is here to help us through. Milkwood’s change of direction in response to 2020’s ApocaGeddon is not only admirable but has been more marked than most: so let’s celebrate one of our true beacons, because few locally have pirouetted as Read More
This won’t be a Top 40 style rundown of favorite dishes in this oddest of years, or even my favourite restaurants. We all know what’s happened and the challenges that poses for restaurants and the people who work in them, so let’s skip to the good stuff. Instead, let’s highlight some good local food you Read More
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